When October arrives in the highlands of Nagano and Gifu, the Japanese Alps undergo their most spectacular seasonal transformation. From the golden larches of Kamikōchi to the blazing maples of Hida, follow the koyo front as it descends through the mountains, turning the forests every shade of red, orange, and gold.

Spend a night at one of Japan's most celebrated traditional ryokan, where tatami rooms overlook a willow-lined canal, seven public bathhouses are yours to explore on wooden geta sandals, and a multi-course kaiseki dinner arrives one lacquered tray at a time. Kinosaki Onsen is everything a hot-spring town should be.

In the lush cedar valley of Shuzenji, the Izu Peninsula's oldest hot spring resort offers a quieter, more intimate version of traditional ryokan hospitality. An hour from Tokyo but a world away in atmosphere, Shuzenji is Japan's most overlooked onsen town — and the best possible argument for leaving the main tourist trail.